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HomeMy WebLinkAboutPalm Desert Rev1 Architectural Booklet PALM DESERT: AN ARCHITECTURAL TOUR INTO MODERNISM Written and compiled by Jim West -2016 Typical example of the architectural work of John F. Outcault West-Prinzmetal Architectural Archives, Palm Desert, CA Top to bottom left then right: Toole House by Rudolph Schindler 1 Odell Ranch House by Carl Hansen 2 E. W. Stewart House by Walter S. White 3 Adrian Pellieter House by Clark, Frey & Chambers 4 Hal Kapp – Ted Smith Office Building by John F. Outcault 5 Palm Desert Sandpiper by William Krisel 6 Credits: 1. Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara. Photographer: Shirley C. Burden; 2. Photographer: Linda Holden Clode; 3. Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara. Photographer: Walter S. White; 4. Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara and the Getty Research Institute, Los Angeles. Photographer: Julius Shulman; 5. West-Prinzmetal Architectural Archives, Palm Desert, Ca; 6. Photographer: James Schnepf Special thanks to the following: Jocelyn Gibbs; Karen Prinzmetal; Linda Holden Clode; Merilee Colton; James Schnepf; Volker M. Welter; Historical Society of Palm Desert; City of Palm Desert: Cultural Resources Preservation Committee; Modernism Week. PALM DESERT: AN ARCHITECTURAL TOUR INTO MODERNISM Welcome to Palm Desert … ‘the smartest address in the American desert’. Not always considered so special this area was once called ‘Sand Hole’ by the US Government back in the days of horses and stagecoaches traveling on the nearby Bradshaw Road. Here former agricultural spaces eventually developed into the small community of ‘Palm Village’. Soon after that the nearby resort community of ‘Palm Desert’ was intentionally created around the famous Shadow Mountain Club. The architecture that is represented in this region ranges from ranching/utilitarian to desert modern/relaxation. Design creativity and the introduction of new materials and building systems resulted in structures that celebrated living in the beauty of a desert environment. Many of these homes were originally designed for care free ‘seasonal’ use. First however, it was all about WORK. In 1903 Charles McDonald became the first rancher here. He created a 480 acre ranch where he installed wells and reservoir and made an attempt to grow hops. By 1929 King Gillette of razor blade fame bought the ranch and converted it to growing grapefruit. In 1932 Highway 74 opened after being built on the Palms to Pines trail. This new road provided access to the San Jacinto and Santa Rosa mountains. This opening elevated the importance of this MID VALLEY location which is ‘halfway’ between Palm Springs and Indio. This same road would much later serve a ‘staring’ role in the 1963 filming of the comedy blockbuster It’s A Mad, Mad, Mad, Mad World. Near this intersection of Highway 74 and Highway 111 a small homestead existed. This 1920s home had its own well and electric power and had a fireplace made of adobe. In 1934 and 1935 it was occupied by an important architect. It is here that the young Swiss architect, Albert Frey lived while he worked on his first important Coachella Valley project. He drove his 1932 Ford convertible from Palm Desert to Palm Springs for the making of the Kocher-Samson Building. In the 1930’s William Johnson, president of American Pipe and Construction Company purchased 320 acres from King Gillette and built 6 homes. He later hired the landscape architect, Charles Gibbs Adams to make a residential area on his land with curved streets where each small house would have mountain views. Adams was famous for designing the Hearst Castle gardens, USC and the streets of Beverly Hills. The basic infrastructure for the area was completed but unfortunately this desert project failed due to the Great Depression. Eventually it was purchased in the 1940’s by the Mollin Investment Company and renamed ‘PALM VILLAGE’. Time to make some houses! From 1942 thru 1944 General Patton maintained a GIGANTIC vehicle pool in an area south of HWY 111 for troops that were in training for desert warfare. It was called the ‘Palm Village Vehicle Pool’ and over 6000 tanks and field artillery passed thru this area. Here officers and soldiers received training on vehicle use and quick repair methods in a desert environment. The weapons, vehicles, and many of the soldiers eventually were disbursed overseas. After this military area was closed and cleared out, this empty desert space was noticed by a group of influential and moneyed ‘players’. Cliff Henderson is the visionary who is credited with creating Palm Desert. Henderson was a nationally known individual who among many other things had been the first manager of the Los Angeles Airport and managed the National Air Races. Encouragement and financial backing for creating the city came from Edgar Bergen, Harold Lloyd, Leonard Firestone, Bill and Anthony Stewart (Union Oil), and the brothers Carl, Randall and Phil Henderson among others. This same group owned the famous Welton Beckett designed, streamline moderne, Pan Pacific Auditorium in Los Angeles and had regular contacts with the rich and famous. By 1946 the Palm Desert Corporation was formed and 1,620 acres of pure desert land was purchased south of HWY 111. It is said that they paid $26 per acre. Edith Eddy Ward set herself up as the ‘First Lady’ of real estate for Palm Desert. Tommy Tomson the husband of the Henderson sister Dorris was chosen as the city landscape architect. He created a city plan that continued the concept of curving neighborhood streets that had started in nearby Palm Village. Soon streets and water distribution systems were placed. The main street, El Paseo was planned and developed as an opulent shopping destination with trees optimistically planted a full 10 years before the first store opened. Tomson was famous for his landscapes of Union Station in Los Angeles, the Santa Anita racecourse, Pan Pacific Auditorium and the Los Angeles Park La Brea apartments near LACMA. In 1945 just west of HWY 74 Homesteads were started in the Cahuilla Hills. There were 128, five acre parcels that were offered at $5 a year. A self built ‘cabin’, worth at least $300, added to the site resulted in receiving a deed to the property. One early homesteader was none other than Tommy Tomson. His unusual house was constructed from railroad ties and had modern spider leg structure supports attached. Today Cahuilla Hills are an amazing mix of giant estates and tiny, tiny homes. Meanwhile the famous Shadow Mountain Club was beginning to take shape. Kaufmann, Lippincott, and Eggers were the original architects for this mammoth project. Kaufmann was famous for designing the La Quinta Inn and the Hoover Dam. Shadow Mountain work started in 1946 with the construction of a large 600 foot long lake. Then in 1947 an enormous 350,000 gallon, figure eight shaped, 130 foot long pool was created. This pool still exists today! This pool was photographed by Julius Shulman and was referred to as ‘the good life’ although as is true in much of early Palm Desert architectural history it is incorrectly labeled as ‘Palm Springs’. In 1948 an International Style clubhouse, dining room and pro shop was designed by the architect Tom Douglas. From the beginning the club was filled with celebrities and sports personalities. Shadow Mountain Club had everything: Stables, race track, model train house, high diving, rainbow trout fishing, movies, theater, parties and more. It truly served as the social center for the young community. In 1958 a Gene Sarazen designed golf course was built and in 1961 tennis courts were completed. Eventually cottages and condominiums were also added. This club probably played the largest role in the early development of Palm Desert. Images of Shadow Mountain Club and Club Logo courtesy of Historical Society of Palm Desert One architect, the internationally famous Rudolph Schindler, was commissioned to design the Maryon Toole House (1946-1948) in Palm Village. Today this is one of the most important preserved modernist structures in the Coachella Valley. It is also the only known remaining Schindler structure in our valley. The reddish-brown local stone masonry house has a soaring and open beam ceiling punctured by a fireplace. Schindler said “the whole is shaded by an ample but lightly poised roof reminiscent of a giant oak leaf”. Schindler called his form of modern architecture “Space architecture” which focused on the design of the interior space. The views from inside this structure reveal spectacular mountains in all directions. Schindler is given credit for the first modernist structure in our valley – The Popenoe Cabin (1922) which once was located in Coachella. Above:Toole House Site Plan and Vintage Image by owner. Below: Interior images by Shirley C. Burden. Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara. The first major commercial structure to be built south of HWY 111 was near the Toole House. It was the 17,000 square foot Desert Magazine building for Randall Henderson. Here the publication, Desert Magazine was produced. This large structure was primarily used for publishing but also included an art gallery, gift shop, and gem shop. The Pueblo Revival building was designed by Harry Williams and was built in 1948. In addition he designed apartments located behind the commercial structure for the employees. Harry Williams is the same architect that designed the 1936 La Plaza in downtown Palm Springs which also incorporated a mixed use approach. He would later form the firm of Williams, Williams, and Williams (with sons Roger and Stewart). The Firecliff Lodge, named after its backers Leonard Firestone and Cliff Henderson, opened on El Paseo in 1948 back when it was a dirt road. It became the first of many attractions for visitors that were located at a walking distance from the Shadow Mountain Club. Besides rental bungalows, and a pool the Firecliff offered fine dining and a lounge. Thru the late 1950s architect William Frazier Overpeck designed Firecliff living units and hotel additions. His designs provided a spectacular modern setting. Textured block, angular fireplace, water features and modern furniture filled the spacious lobby and lounge areas. Next door, to the west of Firecliff, a cluster of cooperative homes called the Sun Lodges were also built. The original small, efficient modern homes were designed by Walter S. White in 1949 and could be rented out when the owners were away. At first the one bedroom units were only 650 square feet and later larger homes were offered. Unfortunately, today both the Firecliff Lodge and the Sun Lodges have been demolished. Arial photograph is by Walter S. White. Image is bounded by Shadow Mountain Drive on the left and El Paseo Blvd. on the right. The Sun Lodges are clustered at the top and the Firecliff Lodge is aligned along the bottom. Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara. Walter S. White worked as a local designer from 1948 thru 1960 in both Palm Village and Palm Desert. He created a large number of projects that ranged from the most basic to supremely complex engineering marvels. He created inexpensive domestic architecture as well as custom homes and public buildings. He experimented with methods of construction and building materials. He was especially concerned with designing for the environment and respecting nature. White was considered an inventor and builder as well as an architect. Above: Walter S. White office near HWY 111 circa 1949. Photo of Walter S. White with his camera mid 1950s. Below Top: Early 1950s rendering and construction photo of Metro Homes. Below bottom: 1958 Johnson-Herbert House. 1949 – thru early 1950s Sun Lodges. Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara. He made a dramatic impact on the look of the newly developing Palm Desert. Fortunately many of these homes can still be seen in Palm Desert today. Some of these include the following: Clifford Henderson House (remodel); E. W. Stewart House; W. Durham House; Paulette Johnson (Herbert) House; Tom Brown #2 House; Claude S. Voile House; Donald Hunter House; Ralph Rollins House; Charles Milliken House; George Mitchell House; Samuel Cowling House; Harvey L. and Minna Kirk Ackman House; Melvin Bradford House; Albert L. Peterson House; Richard Deman Bungalows; Several Metro Homes; Miles Bates House. In his early years White had worked in the offices of Harwell Hamilton Harris, Rudolph Schindler, Leopold Fischer, and Albert Frey. Recently one of his structures, the 1955 Dr. Franz Alexander house, in Palm Springs was officially listed in the National Historic Register. The Alexander House appeared in the Nov. 1957 issue of National Geographic where White was quoted as saying: “Conventional architecture is static and self-conscious and just doesn’t fit the freedom of the desert… we are abandoning the tyranny of rigidly parallel walls and 90-degree angles.” White liked to place his residential structures at an angle to the street and preferred corner lots and lots on the southern side of a street. His houses contained celestial windows and usually featured a mitered glass window. He often incorporated staggered block walls and planters chiefly designed to protect the home in the event of flash floods. He also experimented with roof structures which included the Hyperbolic Paraboloid in which he received a U.S. Patent (an example can still be seen on the Max Willcockson House located in Indio which may have influenced the Frey & Chambers Tramway Gas Station in Palm Springs that was built many years later.) Another invention of his was an ingenious roof system that included long wooden dowels that allowed wave like shapes. He received a U.S. Patent for this system which was originally developed for the Palm Desert Miles Bates House. In 1951 Palm Village and Palm Desert officially merged into ‘Palm Desert’. Above: Photos taken by Walter S. White of the 1951, E. W. Stewart House. Note the massive chimney, low pitched roof, mitered glass window, triangular celestial windows at ceiling, desert landscaping. E. W. Stewart was the owner of ‘Catalina Swimsuits’. Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara. Right: Rendering prepared by Siegfried Knop. 1954-1955 Miles Bates House. Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara. Top: Christian Science Church Bottom: Palm Desert Library. Both designs by architect John Outcault. West-Prinzmetal Architectural Archives, Palm Desert, CA. Another architect which had an extensive impact on the built environment of Palm Desert was John Outcault. He grew up in Palm Springs and received his Architectural degree from USC in 1952. While a student he worked in the offices of Clark and Frey. After graduation he worked for the State of California Division of Architecture (1952-1953); Alfred Easton Poor Architect in New York City (1953- 1956) and Clark, Frey & Chambers (1956). In 1956 he opened his own office in the city of Palm Desert. He received his Architectural License in 1957 and for the next 40+ years he worked throughout the entire Coachella Valley while living in Palm Desert. Top: Randall Henderson House #2; Village Market. West-Prinzmetal Architectural Archives, Palm Desert, CA. Middle: ’Hotel’ for Shadow Mountain Club Bottom: Shadowcliff ‘Apartments’; Dietz Designs West-Prinzmetal Architectural Archives, Palm Desert, CA. He designed many of the most notable private and public structures in Palm Desert. In addition he was very active in the community (College of the Desert Board of Trustees; Palm Desert City Incorporation; Development of the Living Desert). John Outcault’s architectural designs were influenced by the work of Walter S. White along with other built modernist architecture in the Coachella Valley. Some of his most important Palm Desert work that can still be easily viewed today: The Christian Science Church; Palm Desert Library; Living Desert Buildings; Gordon Bain House; Ralph Hale House; George Klein House; Randall Henderson House #2; Natt McDougal House; Paul Moller House; Virgil Pinkley House; John Outcault House; Ed Welcome House; Harold Kapp House; J. R. Cummings House; Charles White Apartments; Shadowcliff Condominiums; Bilarc-One Condominiums; Palm Desert Senior Center (Joslyn); Roger Fuller (Galleria) Commercial Building. Top: Living Desert Buildings; Palm Desert Liquor Middle: Moller House; Kapp House Bottom: Bain House; Sandpiper Shoes West-Prinzmetal Architectural Archives, Palm Desert, CA. Top: Abel Cable; Edith Moore’ 2nd Row: George Klein House 3rd Row: Candlewood Inn Bottom: Bilarc-One Condominiums West-Prinzmetal Architectural Archives, Palm Desert, CA. Top: Temporary Construction Office for Cliff Henderson Bottom: Charles White House West-Prinzmetal Architectural Archives, Palm Desert, CA In 1958 a significant modernist development named the Sandpiper was started on El Paseo west of HWY 74. Today the Sandpiper is considered one of William Krisel’s masterpieces. In this large project, Krisel was allowed to apply his skills as an architect, landscape architect, urban planner, and project manager. The Sandpiper was originally conceived as seasonal second homes advertised as “own your own luxury garden apartments”. Early on the project was promoted by Palm Desert’s honorary mayor Bing Crosby. The idea was to provide residential privacy along with ‘resort hotel service’. Today it is one of the best remaining examples of a concentration of Desert Modernism architecture in the Coachella Valley. Although it is frequently referred to in the singular, there are actually nine separate real estate subdivisions representing eleven building stages that occurred between 1958 and 1969. This time span makes the Sandpiper a very unique and historic landmark, as ultimately it served as a true “design and build” laboratory. One can actually see how over time the architect and builders responded to the changing needs of homeowners, the availability of materials, and the current economy when producing a modern product that would successfully celebrate life in the desert. The initial chosen design incorporated eight, three-unit, single story, pinwheel-shaped buildings clustered around a Site Plan for one of the 18 circles included in the Palm Desert Sandpiper. Constructed between 1958 and 1969. West-Prinzmetal Architectural Archives, Palm Desert, CA. common area. The typical ‘front porch’ in each unit was moved to the poolside, away from the street. Decorative concrete walls were used extensively. Post and beam construction, flat roofs, large sliding glass doors, clerestory windows, aluminum sash, refrigerated air, matched electrical appliances, modern décor, space age kitchens, swimming pools with dramatic angles, exterior walls of concrete steps, varying roof heights, sun-flaps, putting greens, desert and ‘tropical’ planting. Every unit had views of the mountains and the pool. Every unit had both public and private patios. From the very beginning the Sandpiper was highly acclaimed and award winning with literally dozens of articles in newspapers, magazines and trade publications with many filled with Julius Shulman images. Further international attention came when President Kennedy traveled right by the Sandpiper on his way to stay at Bing Crosby’s home in nearby Silver Spur. Top Left: Concrete Masonry Age Top Right: Landscape Plan . West-Prinzmetal Architectural Archives, Palm Desert, CA. 2nd, 3rd, 4th Left: Sandpiper Exterior and Screen blocks Photo Credit: James Schnepf In the end, the Sandpiper included 306 individual homes and eighteen swimming pools entwined with private roads and walkways spread over nearly fifty-five acres. The ‘modern’ Sandpiper paved the way for many more developments in Palm Desert and the rest of the Coachella Valley. Many of these later projects chose materials and design features that were first introduced and promoted at the Krisel- designed Sandpiper. Not far from the Sandpiper was ‘The College of the Desert’ which was also started in 1958. The chosen location for the campus was the 120 acre Odell Ranch which included 20 acres of dates and 60 acres of grapes. The original 1948 Odell Ranch House was a modern, 3500 square foot house equipped with ‘refrigerated air’. The house is still in use on campus today. Planning for the first 9 campus buildings and fountain was completed by 1959. Architecturally this is the only project of its kind in the country where five of the era’s most prominent modern architectural firms came together to create a uniquely designed campus. This ‘Dream Team’ was led by John Carl Warnecke who was responsible for the original master plan for the campus. He is credited with incorporating the look of the local palm trees and palm fronds into the final campus design. Buildings with exterior covered walkways were bordered by tapered columns recalling the nearby date palms. Sand colored exteriors were used to connect with the desert landscape. A unifying design element of rectangular panels was placed on the edge of the covered walkways of most of the buildings. And from all locations everyone had views of the distant mountains. The center building was the original two story library building which was placed on an elevated foundation and placed near a large fountain for emphasis. John Porter Clark served as the senior coordinating architect that saw the Warnecke plan implemented. He accomplished this while coordinating with the prominent local architects: Williams and Williams; Wexler & Harrison; and Frey and Chambers. The first students arrived in 1962 (a few hundred). Another 8 buildings were added by the late 1960s. Today newer structures have been added that encircle the original core. The campus Sandpiper Poolside Patio view. Photo Credit: Linda Holden Clode now serves 14,000 students annually. Once this campus was created it made a direct positive impact on the growth of Palm Desert. In the 1950s and 1960s several neighborhoods were developed including: Metro Homes; Desert Garden Estates; Panorama Ranch; Shadow Hill Estates; Deep Canyon Ranch; Palm Vista; Silver Spur Estates; Shadow Mountain Vista; Shadow Mountain Estates; Shadow Mountain Fairway; Palm Desert Highlands; Shadow Village; Palm Desert Country Club (Palm City); Purple Hills Estates; Marrakesh Country Club(into the 1970s) and many more. A large number of the homes in these neighborhoods were proudly sold as modern. They were often long horizontal structures with low pitched roofs and included bands of windows and glass sliders. Many of these participated in the Medallion Home program. This program started in late 1957 and encouraged the public to fashion a better way of living by buying homes properly planned and equipped with electrical appliances. ‘Today, like glittering jewels, the Medallion Homes sparkle with excitement and afford a more comfortable and luxurious way of life.’ --- California Electric Power Company The original Palm Desert residential zoning rules dictated single story houses with no architectural style dictated however ranch houses were deemed desirable. All plans had to be approved by the ‘Palm Desert Architectural Committee’. Square footage minimums were set at 800sf for small weekend cottage sites; 1000sf for small home sites; 1200sf for Shadow Mountain Estates; and 1500sf for Palm Desert Ranchos. 1952 Adrian Pelletier House designed by Clark, Frey & Chambers Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara The Adrian Pelletier House designed by Clark, Frey and Chambers. The above images by Julius Shulman. Architecture and Design Collection. Art, Design & Architecture Museum, UC Santa Barbara and the Getty Research Institute, Los Angeles The city ‘Founder’, Cliff Henderson chose to have a modern house which was built in 1947. Most of the homes close to the Shadow Mountain Club were custom designs by architects and designers. Some homes were by designer/builders. The ‘Architectural Committee’ encouraged multiple designers and architects to work in each neighborhood. Areas of actual tracts did not actively appear until the mid to late 1960s. Motels, markets, apartments, condominiums, retail, schools, religious, entertainment and public buildings would soon follow with many celebrating the architecture of desert modernism. In all of these building types the designers had to carefully consider the harsh environmental requirements of living in the desert. They perfected modern floor and site plans and took full advantage of all those mountain and exterior views. They used new building materials and experimented with new building methods. In the end they left a legacy of structures that celebrate the good life of Palm Desert where as the early promoters would say: “At least an hour’s more sun for every day of fun!” “Where the sun spends the winter” “Hours more sun … Lots More Fun!” “Carefree Desert Living” “Smartest address in the desert” Early promotional material: Homes designed by one of the architectural firms that contributed to the look of Silver Spur Ranch neighborhood. West-Prinzmetal Architectural Archives, Palm Desert, CA. Some of the architects and designers and builders that worked in Palm Desert at the mid century (1940s thru 1970s) included the following: Clarence Beck; Barry Berkus; Harold Bissner; Michael Black; Reginald Bolt; Sheldon Brown; William Bray; Herbert Burns; Robson Chambers; Christian Choate; John Porter Clark; William Cody; Arthur Coffey; Alfred H. Cook; Charles Darland; Richard Deman; Charles W. Doty; Tom Douglas; J. C. Dunas; Charles DuBois; Duval Brothers; Lakeside Development; Polly deMayle; Leopold Fischer; Albert Frey; Barry Frost; Hank Gogerty; Carl Hansen; Richard Harrison; George Holstein; Weston and Jones; T. E. Jung; Kaufmann, Lippincott, and Eggers; Earl Kaltenbach; Hugh Kaptur; Kemp and Osborn; Robert Koch; William Krisel; Howard Lapham; Lawrence Lapham; Lillian Hunt; Bernard K. K. Leung; Charles Martin; Cliff May; John Moyer; D. K. Oster; John Outcault; William Frazier Overpeck; Ross Patton; Powell, Morgridge, Richards & Coghlan; William Pereira; Jim Ramsey; Bob Pitchford; Robert Ricciardi; Stanley Ring; Johnson & George Ritter; John C. Roberts; Laszlo E. Sander; Stan Sackley; Rudolph Schindler; R. P. Shea; Sproul Homes; Tommy Tomson; John Carl Warnecke; Don Wexler; Walter S. White; Albert Wild; Harry Williams; Stewart Williams; John Elgin Woolf. Palm Desert originally was expected to extend all the way from Rio Del Sol (Bob Hope Drive) in the west to Washington Avenue in the east. Palm Desert however, did not successfully incorporate until 1973. By that time some of that area had already incorporated into either Rancho Mirage or Indian Wells. Even so, many architectural records today will still include those ‘lost’ areas as being in Palm Desert. The first building to serve as Palm Desert ‘city hall’ was the Krisel designed sales office for the original Sandpipers located at the corner of El Paseo and Highway 74! Kemp House designed by William Krisel Photo Credit: James Schnepf Bill Kemp House (‘The Lost Krisel’) By William Krisel Photograph: James Schnepf Early Palm Desert Street Map West-Prinzmetal Architectural Archives, Palm Desert, CA COLLEGE OF THE DESERT Top Left: Current view of signature architectural features of the COD campus. Photographer: Linda Holden Clode. Left: Detail and Title Block on COD prints. College of the Desert - Maintenance Department Print Files. Above: Early aerial view of campus. Historical Society of Palm Desert. Below: COD early site plan. College of the Desert - Maintenance Department Print Files. Sandpiper Block Field Guide How many can you find???